Guest columnist Brian Seed tells you how to give up the beach and learn to love the (ice)berg.
In 2011, Disney enters one of the most established cruising markets in the world: Alaska. Cruising Alaska offers some of the most unique experiences on Earth. From truly majestic scenery to unique wildlife encounters, an Alaska cruise has something to offer everyone—except warm, sunny beaches.
Disney’s announced itinerary follows the traditional Inside Passage loop that ships have taken to deliver passengers and goods to Alaska for most of the last two centuries. Due to the Jones Act of 1920 that prohibits non-U.S. flagged vessels from operating between only U.S. ports, the cruise actually starts north of the border, in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, with stops in Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway, Alaska. Each of these Alaska ports, although geographically quite close, are unique and offer excursion opportunities that immerse the traveler in the culture and history of Southeast Alaska.
The scenic skyline of Vancouver and Stanley Park are visible from a cruise ship departing for an Alaska cruise. Photo by Brian Seed.
Taking a cruise to Alaska can be the experience of a lifetime. If you have taken cruises with Disney before, or believe that cruises always take you to sunny islands with frozen tropical drinks, then it’s time to do a little homework before heading to the great white north.
As a former crew member on a cruise ship in Alaska, we always snickered when we saw passengers in shorts. While there are days when this will be comfortable attire, what most people don’t know is that the entire area from the Inside Passage through Southeast Alaska is pretty much temperate rainforest. In fact, if you can get through an entire Alaska cruise and not have it rain once, it’s time to buy a lottery ticket. In my opinion, the best chance to avoid most of the rain is to book your cruise for the first part of August. Still, a good coat will need to be high on your packing list.
Alaska is such a massive land—laid across the lower 48 states, would stretch from Florida to California east to west and Minnesota to Texas north to south—that a cruise to Southeast Alaska expose visitors to only a tiny fraction of the state.
Disney’s biggest challenge with the new Alaskan cruises will be in how it applies its “Disney touch” to an itinerary that other cruise lines have established over many decades. Alaska, in my opinion, is one of the most family-friendly cruise destinations available, as there is something for everyone.
Vancouver, British Columbia
Looking at the trip from Vancouver up the Inside Passage to Alaska, what can you expect, and what will Disney offer in 2011?
Although you are going to Alaska, you have to leave from Canada. This can pose some special challenges, especially for families. To start, you must have a valid passport to go on an Alaskan cruise.
To make things easier on cruise passengers heading to Alaska from Vancouver, the Canadian government has established a program called “U.S. Direct,” designed to keep security measures in place while allowing U.S. citizens easy passage from the border right to the cruise ship. To participate, cruise passengers preregister their passport and personal information with Canada, then upon arrival at the Vancouver airport, go through a very abbreviated customs/immigration process. After a brief wait in a holding room, they are then taken via a bus right to the cruise ship terminal.
Want to get out and look around? Sorry, the bus door is sealed and cannot be opened until you reach the ship. Once at the terminal, you are taken to another holding room until it is time to board. Once on the ship, you can see some great things on shore, but don’t bother trying to get off the ship—you can’t. All of this “convenience” has the potential to make young children—and adults—stir crazy.
Vancouver is a gem of a city; one of the most beautiful large cities in the west. You are doing yourselves a huge disservice if you do not spend some time here, either before or after your cruise, to explore what this area has to offer. While Disney has not announced exactly where in Vancouver its ship plans to dock, it would surprise me greatly if it was not Canada Place.
Located in the heart of downtown, Canada Place served as the International Broadcast Center for the 2010 Winter Olympics. It contains many unique shops, restaurants, and even an IMAX theater—imagine that in a cruise ship terminal.
Located just to the west is Gas Town, one of the oldest sections of Vancouver. A unique steam-powered clock marks the area's entrance, where you can find some great and truly Canadian shops and restaurants. To the east is Stanley Park, one of the greatest urban forest parks in the world. Rent bicycles and spend some quality family time riding around the park on trails that hug the shipping channel, cliffs, and even under the Lion’s Gate Bridge, which the cruise ship will sail under as it departs for Alaska. The Stanley Park Aquarium offers a fun and educational opportunity to see native sea life, including beluga whales, with up-turned mouths that look like they're smiling.
Other attractions in the area include Science World, the Capilano Suspension Bridge (a walking thrill ride!) and a tram trip up Grouse Mountain.
When it comes to Vancouver, you need to look beyond the pier and really explore this wonderful, family-friendly city.
Cruising the Inside Passage
Unlike Caribbean cruises, an Alaskan cruise always offers something to see. Forested islands, native villages, bald eagles, humpback whales, and the rare pod of orcas make this journey one that will keep you always on deck or in front of a window enjoying the view. While on other itineraries the ship is the star, here it is the scenery. While this may not seem very interesting to children, some of the biggest smiles will come when they spot their first eagle, or see the whales spout or even breach as you cruise by.
One essential item for Inside Passage cruising is a pair of binoculars—one for every member of the family old enough to use them. Scan the tops of the trees along the channel. That white ball right on top of the tree could be a bald eagle. Scan the surface of the water for any spouts. Shout “Thar she blows!” as you’ve just spotted a whale. See a brown or black animal walking along shore? That’s a bear. Taking a ship through the Inside Passage is more than just transportation; it’s a real wildlife cruise.
Ketchikan, Alaska – Alaska’s First City
Ketchikan is a city on an island, reachable only by air or water. It has recently gained some notoriety for being the proposed site of the infamous “bridge to nowhere,” which would have connected the city to the airport on a neighboring island. You will actually see this as you sail in and are docked in this small fishing village.
Saxman Native Village in Ketchikan includes this very tall totem pole carved from a tree. Photo by Brian Seed.
In every port, you will find a large number of shops right off the pier where the ships dock. Most of these shops are actually owned and operated by the cruise lines. You have to go a few blocks into town to find of the shops that are locally owned. In Ketchikan. The one not to be missed is Ketchicandies—a chocolate and candy shop that puts your local shop to shame.
Ketchikan is really the port to experience the native culture of Southeast Alaska, specifically that of the indigenous Tlingit people. Disney is offering a totem pole-carving demonstration, which seems minimal compared to what can be experienced by going to the Saxman Native Village or Totem Bight State Historical Park. At both places, you will discover the history and stories of the totem pole from the native people themselves, something you and your children will not experience anywhere else.
One activity the whole family can really enjoy is the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, held right by the cruise ship dock. The timber industry has been, and still is, of extreme importance to this part of Alaska, which makes this a natural setting for the show. The show has look and feel of a live stunt show at Universal Studios, but here the lumberjacks showcase the traditional skills of being a lumberjack in an entertaining competition format. Disney is offering a special experience along with this show, which makes this a must-see for your stop in Ketchikan.
Performers race up poles during the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show in Ketchikan. Photo by Brian Seed.
The area around the pier is small and an easy walk. Take a stroll up Creek Street, but be warned that this is the former red-light district—not all of the attractions here are what could be termed “family friendly”. Cross the bridge to get to Creek Street and look down at the water to view the thousands of salmon coming in to spawn, There will likely be a line of local fishermen trying to catch one right off the bridge. At the end of Creek Street is a fish ladder (a “staircase” of water pools built to allow fish to travel around dams) where you can view salmon jumping up a waterfall to get to their spawning grounds.
Juneau, Alaska – Alaska’s State Capitol
Juneau’s focus is the contemporary Alaskan experience. This is the state capitol with an overall population of less than 50,000 people and, although on the mainland, is only accessible by air or water thanks to the Juneau Ice Field, a field of ice that is almost a mile thick.
Most of Juneau’s permanent residents do not live in the downtown area, but out in the Mendenhall Valley, around the ridge to the north of the cruise ship dock. You are docked in the old downtown area and near to most of the state government buildings. Like Ketchikan, most of the shops near the ships are owned by the cruise lines and you will have to take a stroll through the streets of this traditionally built Alaskan downtown district to find the unique local shops that define Alaska’s capitol.
A sign in front of Taku Glacier Lodge outside Juneau warns guests to be wary of some of the natives. Photo by Brian Seed.
If you only book one shore excursion on your Alaskan cruise, it must be the trip to the Taku Glacier Lodge from Juneau. This is one of the truly authentic Alaskan experiences available. Board your float plane right at the cruise dock, then fly down the Gastineau Channel and up the Taku Inlet to the Taku Glacier, one of the few advancing glaciers coming off the Juneau Ice Field. You land right at the lodge, walking up to a traditional Alaskan hunting and fishing outpost. Here, visitors are served a special salmon meal, with beverages chilled by actual glacial ice. The staff will share with you the history of the lodge, as well as the intrepid journey of Mary Joyce, who traveled by dog sled from the lodge to Fairbanks in 1936. The sled she used is on display at the lodge.
Juneau is your one chance to really experience ice. The helicopter tours that land on the ice field and the Mendenhall Glacier, which is literally on the edge of town, provide a thrill of a lifetime of chance to land and walk on an actual moving river of ice. These tours require a shuttle to the Juneau Airport in the Mendenhall Valley, a short drive from the cruise ship pier. This may not the best tour for small children, but teens should enjoy it immensely.
Be aware that rides on both of these tours are bumpy. The land around Juneau rises nearly vertical from the water, thus the thermal dynamics of the winds in this area make flying an adventure. Both float plane and helicopter flights are rarely smooth, but know that you will have a very experienced pilot. There are more pilots in Alaska than any other state. Are these tours worth a rather bumpy flight in a small aircraft? Absolutely.
Taku Glacier Lodge outside Juneau gives visitors an expansive view of Taku Glacier. Photo by Brian Seed.
Near where the ship is docked, you will see a tram rising nearly vertical from the pier. This is the Mount Roberts Tramway owned and operated by the Goldbelt Native Corporation. Tram takes you to the top of Mount Roberts, offering breathtaking views of Juneau, Douglas Island, and the surrounding waterways. Nature interpretive trails, a visitor’s center, and an eagle exhibit make this a unique stop while touring Juneau. While it is possible to hike back down to town, this is ill-advised for all but the experienced hiker.
Located right next to the cruise ship dock is Mt. Roberts Tramway, which gives visitors a spectacular aerial view of Juneau. Photo by Brian Seed.
Skagway, Alaska – The Trail of 1898
Before you arrive in Skagway, make sure you are out on deck or near a window as the ship cruises through the Taiya Inlet off the Lynn Canal. It is amazing for a large cruise ship to travel up this narrow channel, but this is the deepest fjord in North America, with the water reaching over 2,000 feet deep
Have your binoculars available; mountains rising vertically on both sides of the vessel, and this is prime territory for spotting bald eagles, and even a few beluga whales chasing salmon up the canal to Skagway.
There is only one word to describe Skagway—gold. This city was built on it, and the history of the Yukon Gold Rush sustains Skagway to this day.
The White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad offers scenic train excursions from Skagway. Photo by Brian Seed.
Skagway is the smallest port city on your itinerary by far. Many of the people you will see are not permanent residents; in fact most of the stores and all but one of the restaurants close at the end of the cruise season and don’t reopen again until May. Unlike the other two ports of call, Skagway is accessible to the outside world by motor vehicle.
Walking into town from the dock, you will notice the one tour here that is not to be missed—the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad. Built largely after the gold rush was over, this narrow gauge railway is one of the engineering marvels of the world, winding its way up the mountain peaks, through tunnels and over high trestles along a route that once ferried frontier passengers and cargo to mines and towns all the way to Dawson. You’ve ridden the attractions at Disneyland and Walt Disney World—now is your chance to experience the real thing.
Broadway Street in Skagway is a real-life Frontierland. Photo by Brian Seed.
Like all Gold Rush tales, the history of this route is pretty much a compilation of stories that deal with hardship and death. In order to give a less grim presentation for younger passengers, Disney will be hitching its own car onto the train and will likely present the history of the area in a more family-friendly fashion.
Exploring Skagway is a real treat. The old train depot is now run by the park’s service and the attached museum illustrates for everyone the massive amount of supplies each and every gold seeker had to carry up the surrounding hills in order to be allowed across the Canadian border. Most of them never found any gold, and many didn’t even make it there to look.
Broadway Street is a real-life Frontierland, with wooden sidewalks and historic buildings surrounded by shops and the requisite Gold Rush-era saloon—in this case, the Red Onion. Taking a horse-drawn carriage ride here is a special treat. A little expensive (although not bad considering where you are), these are operated by year-round residents who really know the area.
The author's family enjoys a horse-drawn carriage in Skagway. Photo by Brian Seed.
Panning for gold is another activity kids will really enjoy. While historically nobody really found any gold in Skagway, that still hasn’t stopped a few entrepreneurs from offering contemporary prospectors the opportunity to catch the fever. Don’t expect to get rich—in fact walking away with just a few flecks in a small vial of water is the norm. Here it is all about the experience, not the reward. Disney is offering an added bonus of a visit from Donald Duck to the experience.
The author's son pans for gold in Skagway. Photo by Brian Seed.
Alaska truly is the Last Frontier as far as this hemisphere goes. A cruise to this great land will offer a vacation experience unlike any other so long as you approach it with an adventurous attitude. For many, a visit to Alaska is the trip of a lifetime and most can not wait to go back.
